Fashion is not only about trends, tailoring and use of fabrics, but also about colours. In light of that, each season the team over at the Pantone Color Institute evaluates the colours shown by fashion designers in their collections at New York Fashion Week (NYFW). This observation is then used to create The PANTONE Fashion Color Report where they highlight the top 10 men’s and women’s fashion colours for the upcoming season.
Although the Fashion Color Report for 2018 Spring/Summer will not be published until NYFW for womenswear until mid-September, some of the menswear collections presented during the recently concluded Paris Fashion Week gave us some insights into the colour trends for next year’s spring and summer season. Apparently, blue is still one of the fashion world’s favourite colours.
時裝設計除了著重時尚元素、剪裁與布料的應用之外，顏色亦同樣佔非常重要一環。有見及此，在每半年一度的紐約時裝週結束之後，美國色彩權威機構彩通色彩研究所（Pantone Color Institute）都會發表一份服裝流行色報告（PANTONE Fashion Color Report），統整出各大時裝品牌和設計師在紐約時裝週所發表的來季系列，當中主要用到的十大顏色，而該份報告便是預示來年最流行色彩的關鍵指南。
雖然要等到在今年 9 月中舉行的紐約時裝週（女裝）結束之後，Pantone 才會發表 2018 年度春夏季的流行色報告，但看過以下六個品牌在剛結束的巴黎時裝週上發表的男裝系列之後，明顯地藍色將會在明年大行其道，再次登上十大流行色排行榜。
Louis Vuitton
Artistic director Kim Jones has enhanced Louis Vuitton’s travel theme in recent years.
For their latest Spring/Summer collection, entitled “Archipelago”, Jones was inspired by the book “Atlas of Remote Islands: Fifty Islands I Have Not Visited and Never Will”; he realised that he had been to about all of the islands that the book mentioned. He then thought of particular islands, namely New Zealand, Easter Island, and especially Hawaii and Hong Kong, and became fascinated by the idea of islands and the different aspects of reaching them. As a result, his collection builds upon different elements from those places, as well as the luxurious pursuit of island-hopping and moving between disparate and distinct locations.
Before looking at the LV collection, a blue-themed invitation to the fashion presentation suggested the subject of the new collection. Further, it also represented the new cobalt-blue colorway for the iconic Monogram canvas – the Monogram Split, emphasised with a centre seam.
The collection's design aspects reveal the classic Hawaii shirt transformed by blue-hued Hawaiian patterns and crafted in intarsia knits. Meanwhile, the extreme sports of the islands, such as windsurfing, climbing, trekking, and hiking have influenced the fitted and elastic silhouettes. Lightweight fabrics like technical silks, tonic mohairs and seersucker, were used throughout the collection, as well as using paper-thin ‘scuba’ lambskin leather bonded with neoprene to fulfil the needs of the modern island-hopper.
在藝術總監 Kim Jones 的領航之下，Louis Vuitton 一直強調的旅行概念得而繼續發揚光大，2018 春夏男裝系列也不例外。Kim Jones 這次就受到一本小島旅遊指南所啟發，但他不是被書中介紹的內容所感染，而是發現書中所提及到的小島他都全部去過，因而喚醒了他對新西蘭島、復活節島、特別是對夏威夷和香港的記憶，並把春夏系列的主題定為「島嶼風情」， 將不同度假勝地的特色元素交錯融合，表達出在小島上旅遊的寫意雅興。
從時裝展的請柬上經己看到一片藍色，原來是品牌全新推出的 Monogram Split 皮具特色設計元素；運用處於正中間的縫線分隔成兩部分，展現出搶眼的對比配色設計。這次所用到的藍色是一種源自太平洋的鈷藍色，觀感沉穩優雅，為經典的 Monogram 系列注入低調唯美的奢華感。
服裝方面，經典的夏威夷裇衫今季以充滿異國風情的藍色枝葉印花圖配搭透明硬沙呈現，實現了 Kim Jones 對夏威夷風格的另類見解。而島上盛行的極限運動如風帆、攀岩和行山亦啟發到設計師的靈感，用上潛水衣與衝浪服的修身及彈性剪裁，配合輕盈、摩登與瀟洒的絲綢、安哥拉山羊毛、泡泡沙，以及具有潛水衣質感的山羊皮設計出一系列運動裝與休閒正裝，從裡到外都散發著濃厚的海洋感覺。
Sacai
Whether it’s menswear or womenswear, Sacai’s design always exudes grace and charm, just like its founder and designer Chitose Abe. If you take a closer look at Sacai’s design, you’ll find it is quite complicated, especially regarding construction and sewing techniques. Still, the silhouettes are always sleek and beautiful, proving Chitose Abe’s ability for striking just the right balance between proportion and creativity.
The 2018 Spring/Summer collection is about the sense of self. “One should live the way they want to, one should create the way they want to. Whatever is happening in the world, you should just follow your path,” said Chitose Abe to WWD. In his collection, Chitose Abe transforms the quotes from America’s famous conceptual artist Lawrence Weiner “Stasis as to Vector all in due course” into an all-over print and run through on shirts, jackets, hoodies, shorts and pants. The use of premium fabrics such as tweed, wool, silk and mesh, presented in midnight blue and ocean hues throughout the collection, which again exudes a sense of gentleness and sophistication.
無論是男裝或是女裝，Sacai 的設計總是散發著一種溫婉氣質，讓人看到舒服，這相信與設計師阿部千登勢本人的個性有關。仔細觀察，品牌的設計其實相當繁複，尤其是在布料的拼接上每季都花盡心思，但製成品每每看來卻都相當自然俐落，絕不冗贅，可見阿部千登勢在比例上的平衡拿捏得相當準確。
2018 春夏系列主張「忠於自己」的生活態度：「 無論世界發生什麼事情，你都應該遵循你的道路而行。」阿部千登勢接受 WWD 訪問時如是說。
新一季的 Sacai 時裝受到美國著名概念設計師 Lawrence Weiner 所啟發，Lawrence Weiner 是一位擅長利用文字進行雕塑創作的藝術家，他於 2012 年在倫敦 Lission Gallery 畫廓上展出的作品「Stasis as to Vector all in due course」成為了阿部千登勢今季的設計靈感，讓文字代替說話。至於系列所用到的藍色是「午夜藍」，感覺穩重大方。粗花呢（Tweed）、羊毛、絲綢與網布的交替應用，令這種介乎於深藍與黑色之間的午夜藍色顯得更有層次。
White Mountaineering
For Spring/Summer 2018, Yosuke Aizawa of White Mountaineering takes inspiration from outdoor professionals such as carpenters, painters and builders, leading him to collaborate with American denim brand Wrangler for a denim workwear set including work coats, shirts and jeans. Meanwhile, the collection also has a bunch of outerwear and sportswear options crafted in technical fabrics and displayed in a colour palette that consists of earthy greens and browns and shades of blue.
說到藍色的時裝，當然少不了牛仔服。這種一年四季都適合著用的時裝風格，出名易於配搭，無論是休閒的 T-Shirt 加牛仔褲造型，還是粗獷的牛仔 Total Look，我們總可以找到適合自己的牛仔風格。
設計師相澤陽介今季受到需要體力勞動的工作（如：木工、油漆工人和藝術家）所啟發，用洗水牛仔布製作了一系列工裝設計，包括牛仔褸、工裝外套和襯衫。此外，相澤陽介今季亦邀來了美國經典丹寧品牌 Wrangler 合作，將時裝與工服進一步結合。新系列除了展現洗水牛仔布的藍調之外，亦集雜著綠色和咖啡色的應用，以維持品牌一貫的戶外形象；當然也不少了迷彩圖案、方格圖騰與功能性布料這些 White Mountaineering 的標誌性設計元素。
Julien David
Beside Yosuke Aizawa, French designer Julien David is another designer who emphasises the use of denim in his Spring/Summer collection. Having lived in Japan for a decade, it is not surprising that Julien David’s design and silhouette would recall Japanese fashion culture. His new offerings include 11oz lightweight washed denim for a pair of jeans that goes well with almost everything in the collection. This time round, shades of blue in denim shirts, workwear jacket, cardigan and chino deliver a sense of elegance and comfort.
除了相澤陽介之外，法國設計師 Julien David 今季的牛仔造型也值得一提。曾經在日本生活十年的 Julien David，在服裝剪裁及版型上因此總夾雜著一點東洋味道。而他的 2018 春夏系列可謂是實行「一條牛仔褲走天涯」的概念，時裝騷上多個造型均配搭以 11 oz 洗水牛仔布製造的牛仔褲展示，就連他本人謝幕時都穿著牛仔褲出場，單看這場發佈會就已經體會到牛仔褲的百搭性。整個春夏系列以休閒風格為主，而裇衫、線衫、毛衣及Chino 褲在藍色的襯托下正好替休閒造型注入一種穩重氣質。
22/4_Hommes
For 22/4_Hommes’ Spring/Summer 2018 collection, designer Stéphanie Hahn recalled her childhood days and the time spent at the beach with friends. Rope drawstrings, safety buckles and chunky nautical trim remind you of summertime.
Meanwhile, the collection features a variety of blue hues serving multiple purposes. For instance, a long shirt with shorts is styled with a slim blue belt to balance the entire proportion; Hahn’s ocean blue suit and green blazer with blue cuff are reminiscent of the sea, sky and grass, while blue flower embroidery on silk presents the idea of “East-meets-West” in a visual sense.
由德國設計師 Stéphanie Hahn 主理的 22/4_Hommes，其 2018 春夏系列以設計師的童年為靈感，回想起當年與朋友在海灘暢泳的夏天，因此將索繩、安全扣和索帶這些在水上活動工具找得到的元素注入設計，以此回憶某年仲夏。
此外，設計師亦在系列中用上藍色來達到不同目的，例如用藍色扣帶把本來全黑色的長身裇衫分成上下兩個部份，突出腰線之餘，更形成一種視覺錯覺。令整體比例更為明顯。另外，藍色套裝令人彷彿感受到陣陣海風迎面而來的感覺，而綠色孖襟西裝拼接藍色袖口，亦將天與地連成一線，而運用藍色印花刺繡圖案亦呈現出一種由東西文化碰撞而成的獨特味道。
Cerruti 1881
For Spring/Summer 2018, Jason Basmajian, the current creative director of Cerruti 1881, recreated the classic tropical look in a modern way. His inspiration for the tropical look came from the brand’s founder Nino Cerruti in 1984 who designed the look for the cult TV series “Miami Vice”. Basmajian’s resulting collection is full of oversized suits, striped jumpsuits and palm leaf patterned printed shirts. Basmajian also incorporated the colour palette of electric blue and ocean joining forces with clean, natural fabrics, including cool wool, cotton, silk, linen and ultralight nubuck, to create streamlined tailored pieces in a casual luxe and sporty mood, yet keeping the original 80’s vibe.
Overall, Basmajian successfully brings back the classic look that profoundly influenced the 80’s men’s fashion scene via his truly modern take on tailoring. The resulting collection looks refreshing, energetic and fun while reminiscing about the good old days.
有時候刻意去模仿或者復刻某種經典風格很容易會令人覺得老土，慶幸的是 Jason Basmajian 並沒有過份依戀過去，即使 2018 春夏系列是參考由前人所建立的精神與風格，運用自己最拿手的現代剪裁，Jason Basmajian 還是能夠將 80 年代最影響男士穿著的時裝風格以摩登手法呈現，令人回味無窮。
總結而言，2018 春夏季依舊充滿著深淺程度不一的藍色存在。不論是日本代表 Sacai 與 White Mountaineering、高級品牌 Cerruti、Louis Vuitton，還是德國品牌 22/4_Hommes 和法國設計師 Juilen David，這些風格各異的時裝品牌都不約而同地在春夏系列中用上藍色作為主色，而且呈現出截然不同的面貌，各有特色；各花入各眼。
TEXT & DESIGN | ZTEPHEN LEE
ORIGINALLY POSTED ON BLACKBIRD AUTOMOTIVE JOURNAL
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